Duval-Leroy — one of the last major independent, family-run Champagne houses, led by Carol Duval-Leroy. Femme is Grand Cru fruit only.

G.D. Vajra — the Vaira family's organic Barolo estate in Vergne. This Langhe Nebbiolo is the same grape, the everyday version.

Hilmy Cellars — 100% Texas fruit, and this Merlot just out-poured the whole state: Reserve Grand Champion at Houston's Rodeo Uncorked.

Hye Meadow — a Highway 290 fixture since before Hill Country wine was cool, pouring Chenin Blanc off their own High Plains vineyard, Cerro Santo.

Jacques Dumont — a small Loire grower whose Vouvray gets its honeyed edge from tuffeau, the chalky limestone under every great Chenin Blanc site.

Louis Jadot — one of Burgundy's great négociant houses, here at the Côte de Nuits' most affordable address, Marsannay.

Jelu — a New Zealand winemaker chasing Malbec in Argentina's Zonda Valley, where the temperature swings 50 degrees in a single day. That's where this color comes from.

La Rivolta — Campania's Sannio hills, where locals call Aglianico 'the Barolo of the South' for its grip and its patience.

La Pépée — Jean-Baptiste Menigoz's Jura natural-wine project. Whole-cluster Pinot Noir, floral, lavender-scented, nothing like Burgundy.

Le Mistral — Joseph Phelps' old Central Coast label, still sourcing Cabernet from Paso's Royal Estrella Vineyard under new ownership at Folktale.

Le Mistral Joseph's Blend — the Rhône wine Joseph Phelps built his reputation on, named for him after he sold it, still made from the same 40-acre Arroyo Seco vineyard.

Le Mistral — reaching into the Chalone AVA's Brosseau Vineyard for cool-climate Syrah with genuine Rhône backbone.

Marie Thibault — trained under Loire legend François Chidaine on Chenin Blanc, but 'Les Grandes Vignes' is her ode to Gamay: one 50-year-old vine parcel on pure flint, zero additions.

Les Lunes — a natural-wine project spanning Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino. This Nouveau is Beaujolais-style, carbonic, and meant to be drunk now.

Pas de Problème — 30-year-old Pinot Noir vines on Burgundy-like limestone outside Béziers. The 'no problem' answer when someone wants Pinot without the Burgundy bill.