Roger Pabiot — one of only three certified-organic estates in all of Pouilly-Fumé. Same river as Sancerre, less hype, more flint.

Selbach-Oster — old vines on the Mosel's single most famous slope, the one with an actual sundial carved into it: Wehlener Sonnenuhr.

Sequoia Grove — Rutherford, Napa, since 1978. Old-guard family winery, new-vintage Chardonnay, same steady hand.

Stoller — Bill Stoller's Dundee Hills estate, home to the first LEED Gold-certified winery in the country. Sustainable, top to bottom.

The Paring — made by the team behind Jonata and The Hilt, using the vineyard blocks too good to leave out but too young for their flagship wines.

Familia Torres's Rías Baixas project — Galician heritage. Organic Albariño, coastal Salnés fruit, high acid, saline snap. Pours easy at $22, tastes like it should cost more.

This is the house that beat Bordeaux. In 1979, a young Torres Cabernet from this same estate went blind against Château Latour in Paris — and won. Gran Coronas is the everyday descendant of that legend: Cab and Tempranillo, oak-aged, and still shockingly fair for the story it carries.

Tournon — Michel Chapoutier's Australian outpost in Victoria, Mathilda named for his own daughter and a nod to 'Waltzing Matilda.'