The winery. Luciano Sandrone is one of Barolo's defining names — he started in 1978 with a small, then-unfashionable plot on Cannubi hill (Cannubi Boschis, later renamed "Aleste" after his grandchildren in 2013), and became known as a bridge between Barolo's modernist and traditionalist camps: he used new oak and modern technique specifically to let Nebbiolo express itself, not to chase a trend. He passed away in January 2023 at 76 — a real loss for Piedmont — but the estate is now run by his daughter Barbara and brother Luca, with granddaughter Alessia joining the next generation. Worth a respectful nod in your copy: this is a legacy wine from a producer whose founder just recently passed, which adds real emotional weight for people who follow the region.
The vineyard. Valmaggiore is a genuinely storied site — an amphitheater-shaped hill in Vezza d'Alba (Roero, across the Tanaro from Barolo proper) that producers like Prunotto and Bruno Giacosa were already labeling as a named cru back in the 1960s. Sandrone spent from 1994 onward piecing together roughly 2-3 hectares through about 20 separate purchases from local growers, many of them elderly owners looking to sell — a patient, decades-long land assembly, not a quick acquisition.
The wine. 100% Nebbiolo, spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeast, aged in 500-liter French oak tonneaux, nine months in bottle before release. 13.5% ABV. Tasting notes: red fruit, rose, white pepper, and violet aromatics; red fruit, tobacco, spice and mineral on the palate; bracingly fresh acidity; long finish with graphite and earth. Critic consensus on 2021 is genuinely strong: Vinous 94, Jeb Dunnuck 93, Wine Advocate 93, Wine Enthusiast 92, James Suckling 91, Wine Spectator 90 — that's an unusually tight, high band of scores for a "baby Nebbiolo," and 2021 itself was one of Piedmont's more acclaimed recent vintages, which shows.